After a month in Jordan, we pack our bags & head for the modern state of Israel (est. 1948), known to many of us as 'the Holy Land'. It goes without saying that few places are as politically, religiously, and historically charged; as such the trip was a definite case of "the more I know, the more I know I don't know" (on that, I really need to learn my Old Testament - and Torah, and Qu'ran - better; appalling after 10 years' Catholic education, tut tut).
Before relaying experiences, I’d like to say toda and lecheim ('thank you' and 'cheers' – the only two Hebrew words that stuck) to: Yoni & Yael for showing us the local side to Jerusalem. Idan & Guy for showing us how it's done in Tel Aviv. Nate for being so warm & fuzzy, and for filtering all things foreign. And of course, to the Lonely Planet for being a steady source of directions, food pointers and general information (I couldn’t have done it without you).
Tel Aviv
We decided to enter Israel at the River Jordan border crossing, where security is supposedly less arduous – however we ended up getting stuck there for about 3 hours. Once through the controls, we discovered that we had been left by our bus; tired, dare I say lazy?, and just generally unwilling to figure out the buses, we opt for a taxi ride to Tel Aviv. 2 hours later we arrive to bustling, cosmopolitan Tel Aviv: *gasp*, there are people jogging! Walking their dogs! Cafes and bars sprawling out on every street corner! This is quite the change from sleepy Amman. There are boutiques, bakeries, women dressed bohemian-chic with big sunglasses, flaunting long, wavy hair; a mixture between Brooklyn, Paris and San Francisco. Without further ado, we drop our bags and proceed to be baptized by fire by our friend Idan & his buddies at the new 'megabar' (a lounge-bar-club, in exactly that order) called Lehman Brothers (cute name, eh?). Over our 3-day stay here, the weather was iffy, so our walk to nearby Jaffa (old Tel Aviv) was a stormy one; but when the sun peeked out and things got warmer, I managed to get one nice morning jog on the beach (and enjoy a cold beer on the very same beach that night…and then Thai food…and then ice cream…then more beer…you get the picture). Overall assessment: Tel Aviv is hip, pedestrian, good-looking, not too big but not too small. All in all, a great place to be in throughout your University years/mid-twenties.
The Sea of Galilee & the Golan Heights
Our first stop is the Sea of Galilee, where Jesus recruited his disciples, and performed most of his miracles (walked on water, multiplied bread & fish, did the Sermon on the Mount, all that fun stuff). After some dutiful praying & candle lighting, and trying (but failing) to walk on water, we head up to the Golan Heights (near the border with Syria) to hit one of the boutique wineries. This particular one, called Odem (est. 2003), is run by a father & son: they treat us to some rich Cab Sauv & Merlots, a sweet cherry wine, two types of port and finally an apple cider (because this is a good idea when you’re driving through fog on mountain roads). Next stops are Nimrod Castle (more Crusader fun) and Banias waterfall. On the way, we passed a few kibbutzes (a friend of mine - and you know who you are - called these 'the great social experiment that failed'– thoughts? opinions?). Still, I would have loved to stay at/work on one for awhile – but alas, time did not permit. There were also a great deal of bed & breakfasts, because it turns out this region is popular for nature lovers, as well as gourmet/organic food junkies (we indulged in one fabulous such meal at the well-known Muscat restaurant, part of the Mizpe Hayamim health spa near Rosh Pina). Just after sundown we arrive to the orthodox town of Tsfat, which, I learn, is the stronghold for the Kabbalah movement. Which means I quickly locate one such Kabbalah institute, and sit in on a class. Suffice it to say that I was totally confused, but I got a badass bumper sticker from the center, so all’s well that ends well. N.B.: the rabbi here did not like Madonna.
Haifa & Akko
Next stop: the coastal city of Haifa, built upon Mt. Carmel and home to the Baha'i World Center and gardens. After a tour of the latter (an impeccable creation, not a blade of grass out of place), we headed North to the tattered but historically rich coastal town of Akko, and toured its underground city – i.e. Knight's Halls and Templar tunnels, also used by the British as a prison during their mandate (and where the Baha'u'llah – the Baha'i faith’s prophet – was held prisoner). While walking around the sewage tunnels, we ran into a film crew doing a piece on Marco Polo, who allegedly ate in the dining halls here (so their project started in Venice and ends in China… some people have all the luck.)
Nazareth
Back in the car again, this time headed to Nazareth, where Jesus lived as a child. Here we stayed in the newly renovated convent of the Religieuses de Nazareth, underneath which is a remarkably well-preserved 1st century Herodian home, chapel and tomb (tours by appointment only; and by appointment, I mean only if the nuns feel like it that day). The main attraction in Nazareth is the Basilica of the Annunciation, the Catholic church’s gigantic, modern construction dedicated to the apparition of the angel Gabriel. Down the road is the tiny but ornate Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation, which in all honesty beats the Basilica (those Greeks were onto something). There’s also a Synagogue-Church (???) tucked into the town’s central souq (market), where Jesus first began preaching, and then down the road from this is St. Joseph's church (where Joseph's carpentry shop supposedly stood). We soon discover that what Nazareth is best known for these days isn’t Jesus, but instead food (grilled meat on cinnamon sticks, extensive salads and dips, grilled eggplant). Bellies full, we head for Mount Gilboa which borders the West Bank, in search of the rare Gilboa iris.
Jerusalem
All these fun things done and dusted, we prepare our saddles for the big endeavor: Jerusalem (listen to this). Jerusalem has always been strategic and important, both in terms of religion and trade. Upon arrival, we discover that it’s bigger than Tel Aviv: roughly 1/3 Orthodox, 1/3 Secular, 1/3 Arab (East & West Jerusalem reunited in 1967). The Old City is truly a mishmash: you hear the Muslim calls to prayer while entering a Polish chapel, and are soon after brushed past by a hoard of pilgrims. All sorts of paraphernalia are on offer: kippas, menorahs, 'evil' eyes, rosaries, Muslim prayer beads, t-shirts ('Don’t worry America, Israel’s behind you'), genuine 'Jesus sandals''. There's something for everyone. I can't imagine how busy this place would be during Holy Week.
We arrived to the city late at night and head to an Ali-Baba-esque restaurant called the Armenian Tavern, adorned with nicknacks of all sorts: blown glass, carved wood, lanterns, necklaces, table-sized encrusted silver trays, etc. After this we head to the famous Wailing Wall; it’s midnight, so there are no tourists – only devout pilgrims (I later learned that Obama visited this wall and left a written wish in its cracks – betcha he wished for world peace). The following day we do the Old City by day, and after this it becomes easy to understand the so-called Jerusalem Syndrome, which afflicts many a tourist (the phenomenon causes you to believe that you are the next Messiah, or at least to begin to have apocalyptic thoughts; there’s actually a clinic for this, where tourists are brought so they can 'cool down'). One of the main attractions in the Old City, for myself as a Christian at least, is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre: i.e., the final 4 stations of the cross, where Jesus was brought, de-clothed, crucified, and buried (on that, it’s rather hard to do the stations of the cross piously & uninterrupted – there’s a bustling market in between each station. So you could be praying with all your might and then some trolley of sweets crashes into you - how's that for ambiance?). The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is actually more like many different churches in one; the ‘territories’ within it were agreed upon in the 19th century (so you have the Greek, Armenian, and Ethiopian Orthodox, and then of course the Catholics; each guarding their own piece o’ holy space). You get the impression that if one chair is placed out of bounds, all hell would break loose (literally). After this, we tried to get in to see the Dome on the Rock/Temple Mount , built upon the rock that is sacred to all three Abrahamic faiths (on this rock: Adam was created, Abraham nearly killed Isaac, where David built the first temple, and Muhammed – peace be upon him – ascended into heaven). However it was closed until further notice for security reasons.
Leaving the Old City behind, we use the next day to do Yad Vashem, the Holocaust museum: this was a fantastic piece of work, much more of a memorial than I was expecting, and crucial for cataloging the lives of victims so that they are not forgotten. Now accompanied by our friends Yoni & Yael, they take us to the central market which is in all its glory (the “pre-Shabbat rush” i.e. buy now because you can’t tomorrow). Here we ate delicious Iraqi food, then headed for a little walking/driving tour of Ammunition Hill (important in the 1948 War of Independence), Schindler’s & Herzl’s grave, the beautiful King David hotel, and the Knesset (Senate). Finally, we head to Yoni's home and settle down for Shabbat – 24 hours of rest, prayer and family between Friday & Saturday sundown – a fabulous institution. You can almost hear the whole country heave a sigh of relief.
Bethlehem - The West Bank
To get to Bethlehem, you must cross the security wall (est. 2003), which is an experience in and of itself. Nate had recommended a taxi driver on the other side to us, a man named Walid but also known as 'Walid the Beast' (2-time Mr. Palestine weight lifting champion, 130kg of muscle and heart). The first attraction in Bethlehem is the street art, a great deal of which was done by the British graffiti artist, Banksy. We then visit the Herodian Palace (which has some pretty cool underground cisterns), then Shepherd's field (where God spoke to the Shepherds; I imagine he sounded something like Morgan Freeman), and finally the Church of the Nativity, which is where Christian pilgrims pay homage to the birthplace of Baby Jesus and was also besieged in 2002 during the Israeli Defense Force’s Operation Defensive Shield. This was quite the little manger: it has a teeny-tiny entrance door (made that way so that no one would enter on horse), gorgeous mosaic floors, and beautiful gold-and-glass fixtures. Next door is the pink-colored Church of St. Catherine (fun fact: Arafat, who’s wife was Christian, went to hear Christmas mass here every year of his married life). We then head to the Milk Grotto, where Mary allegedly stopped to feed Jesus on their way to Nazareth; a drop of her milk hit the rocks, and turned them white (many women go here to pray for lactation - and apparently swallow chunks of the rock). On our way back to the border we pass by the Inter-continental, conveniently located above a UN refugee camp, then take a peak at Walid’s gym (one of the best equipped ones I’ve seen), where his twin brother was working out (also not somebody you'd want to mess with). It would have been great to go into Ramallah (home to the Palestinian Authority), Jericho (arguably the oldest city in the world, up there with Damascus) and Hebron (according to the Genesis, Abraham purchased the cave here to bury his wife Sarah, and subsequently Abraham, Isaac, Rebecca, Jacob, and Leah were also buried in the cave). So I guess that, and the kibbutz, are para la proxima.
Food
Lafa is the sweet, fluffy flatbread that makes your shawerma particularly delectable.
Sahlab is starch made from the dried root of orchids, mixed with milk, served hot & glutenous in a glass with nuts & dried fruit.
Purim cookies are a nice byproduct of the festival of Purim (sort of like our Halloween only with a way different story behind it). These triangular cookies are stuffed with goodness (poppyseed puree, hazelnut spread, strawberry jam, etc).
National favorites, i.e. things in everybody’s pantry, are Bamba (peanut flavored puffed-corn snacks) and Milky (pots of chocolate pudding with cream on top). They’re so important that both have price caps.
Pick your pickle! These are made from every vegetable, and come in every color.
Jerusalem bagels are oval-shaped, sesame covered, and not as dense as their American counterparts. Awesome value for money (read this for a laugh).
An 'Israeli breakfast' normally consists of eggs in a skillet, salad, cheese, and bread. It's delicious & nutritious.
Yoghurt (kefir, buttermilk, labaneh, etc.) and fresh white cheeses abound. Like in the rest of the Middle East, there’s probiotic, calcium-rich goodness at every meal; both salty and sweet versions.
General stuff
When someone said to me, 'This is a largely Christian Arab Israeli town', I thought 'Wait, what? I thought all Israelis were supposed to be Jewish?'….yeah, the joke’s on me. As it turns out Hebrew & Arabic are both official languages, classical Arabic is taught in schools. Israel is 80% Jewish, 15% Sunni Muslim, 5% Christian/other - the 'territories' are 95% Muslim, and 5% Christian. There are Druze (a Muslim 'reformatory' sect), Christians (spanning the whole spectrum), Muslims, Bedouins. And if you want to get really technical, there are different types of Israeli Jews: Ashkenazi (from modern Hungary, Poland, Lithuania, Russia, Eastern Europe), Sephardi (from modern Spain and Portugal), Mizrahi (from the Middle East, North Africa, Central Asia and the Caucus; but also from adjacent, primarily Muslim-majority countries like Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Yemen, Iran, Afghan,istan, India & Pakistan), and finally the Beta Israel (from Ethiopia). This Jewish community is constantly growing due to the the Law Of Return, which gives Jews, those of Jewish ancestry, and their spouses the right to migrate to and settle in Israel, in addition to gaining citizenship. There’s also a growing group of secular Israelis, which I am told is quite the modern phenomenon. So you can see how co-existence is an intricate concept and indeed challenge. And why security is such an issue.
The dominance of youth in Israel is definitely noteworthy: the country is in the hands of its young generation, who have brought (and are bringing) together a people that was scattered until 1948. The solidarity amongst young people is strong, and certainly something to take your hat off to. Once Israelis finish high school, they must do military service – this is mandatory for Jewish and Druze men and Jewish women over the age of 18, although exceptions may be made. Men serve three years in the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF), women serve two; and until the age of about 40 they may be called for active duty immediately in times of crisis. So people do not finish University until the age of 26 or so. Most Haredim (orthodox Jews) do not serve in the IDF, and there are very few Arab Israelis (their participation is voluntary).
Other random tidbits: Apart from toda (thank you) and lecheim (cheers), I learned two other great Hebrew words. The first, satlan, refers to a kind of mentality, similar to that of the Dude in 'The Big Lebowski', i.e. not giving a damn. The second, caha, means 'that’s just the way it is'. I think that’s a great answer to stupid questions, or rather, those I don’t know the answer to. Sunglasses are a big thing to IDF kids – as it’s the only way they can express their individuality. The beach town of Eilat, which lies on the Red Sea, is apparently the Cancun for Israelis (where they go to get drunk, dance and throw up on each other). The local beer, Goldstar, was yummy for sure; but I was really impressed by the Palestinian beer, Taybeh (harder to find though). Written Hebrew has no vowels, so when you see Hebrew with little dots underneath the letters, that’s like Hebrew for dummies (the dots are the vowels). Infected Mushroom (that electronic music group I listened to in Uni) is still kicking. Finally, Yiddish is the language that everybody’s grandparents speak, but nobody in our generation does – meaning, it’s sort of kaput (see what I did there?).
All this done, we pack and head across the border into Jordan, stay a night in Amman and catch a plane back to the Emirates. Once in Dubai (looking backpacker shabby – no longer backpacker chic), we discover new buildings, new roundabouts, even a new transportation system. The show has gone on here, because apparently "the economic crisis isn't happening" in the Emirates….good to know. Without further ado, we pack, bid everyone farewell, and head home to cozy, backward Bolivia.
Please click here to view my photos of Israel.
Disclaimer: Given the divisiveness of the Israel-Palestine conflict (further aggravated by the recent war in Gaza & unresolved elections in Israel), I would like to make it clear that I am not endorsing or trying to shed light on anything but my travel experiences; there are layers upon layers of politics, religion & history, both ancient and contemporary, of which my knowledge remains insufficient. There is also a great deal of rhetoric that is difficult to get around. I was blessed by the friendship and hospitality of all those I came across, regardless of their stance or perception of my own; I believe this is testament to our power as individuals to achieve peace.
