Jordan

Ahlan wa sahlan! Greetings from the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan.

I left the Gulf 3 weeks ago for the Levant. Suffice it to say that I am finding the Middle East richer (in wealth and contradictions), more complicated (magnified by the recent outbreak in Gaza and Israeli elections), and more layered (a place where so many peoples and ways co-exist) by the day. In a word, this place is packed.

I'm in over my head with history - both contemporary & ancient. Major historical landmarks for Jordan include: the Nabatean period, the Roman occupation, the Crusades, and the Ottoman administration. This is of course leaving aside prehistory, because that’s another matter altogether. Then there is ancient & contemporary migration: the Bedouins, the Circassians, the Chechens, the Palestinians (approx. 70% of the Jordanian population), the Armenians, the Egyptians, (more recently) the Iraqi people…heck, I've even come across some Eritreans and Sudanese. Add to this a variety of faiths (approx. 88% Sunni Islam, 2% Shia, 10% Christians – mainly Greek Orthodox but some Catholics as well); a heated political scene. And then there are matters of economic development. I want to begin this piece by saying that my humble, outsider understanding of all of this is still very much in its infancy; and frankly, it probably always will be. Nevertheless I am trying to sponge up as much as possible while here. Upon arrival, I was pleasantly surprised to find numerous active research centers that boast robust libraries, populated by scholars from around the world (namely, the American Center of Oriental Research and the British Council).

Jordan is stable, sleepy, and well-intentioned; overall, a cozy little pocket. Its people are extremely hospitable, and curious too – they want to know who you are, where you're from, what you're doing (which is really quite natural). It seems there is still a sense of trust & community: for instance, I got a ride home yesterday from the guy who owns the laundry next to my office. Every day there’s a gas truck that drives by, playing its little song over loud speakers. I can buy vegetables from the back of a truck at any given time. This tranquility and stability is exceptional given the country’s location, which shares borders with Syria to the north, Iraq to the north-east, Israel to the west, and Saudi Arabia to the east and south (it also shares control of the Dead Sea with Israel, and the coastline of the Gulf of Aqaba with Israel, Saudi Arabia, and Egypt...click here for a map of the Middle East, in case I lost you there). I am inclined to say that this stability is in great part thanks to its monarchy (made up of members of the Hashemite royal family, direct descendants of the prophet Muhammed).

I am delighted to finally be hearing and learning Arabic, as opposed to the head-spinning mixture of Tagalog, Urdu, Farsi, English & occasional Arabic I was hearing in Dubai. The first challenge was learning Arabic numbers, as often receipts and street signs do not bear anything else. I’ve been trying to pepper my speech with space fillers and slang expressions – the Jordanian amiyah (dialect) of Arabic is different from the standard, written Arabic (Fusa). Personal favorites include: shu (what?), yalla (let's go), wallah (really?), keefak (how are you?), hallas (finito), yani (a general space-filler, similar to so/ummm/like), habibi (my beloved), minfudluk (please; I've gathered that the suffix -ik is for girls, -uk is for boys, and -kun is for plural/mixed audiences), shukran (thank you). Then there are: hamdallah (thanks be to God), bismilah (in the name of God), inshallah (God willing - while this one is so nice to hear/say sometimes, it can be really frustrating to hear when you want to get something done!). And finally: ma as-salaamah (peace out – I love that one).

It’s true that in the beginning, I felt slightly self conscious when in more conservative Muslim environments. But by now I’ve gotten over it and realized that 1) it’s not that big of a deal, as the people really aren’t judging, and 2) the adjustments aren’t that big (well, I have had to turn in my skanky wardrobe for clothes more appropriate…I kid, I kid). Jordanian “society” seems to be similar to that of Bolivia, in that all know (or know of) each other, and family names bring strong legacies/associations with them. After 3 weeks here, I can already play "connect the dots"! The wealthier young people are educated abroad at the higher level, and the student body at the American high school here is over 50% local. Basically, it’s the same suffocating social scene you get anywhere – so not surprisingly, those that can, opt for residence in the US or Europe (but of course miss home terribly – side note: this reminds me of my relationship with Bolivia). There is a great deal of talent and culture coming out of Jordan: next week for example, I’ll be attending a reading by Palestinian “urban poet”, ex-Brooklyn resident Suheir Hammad. I was able to go straight for the jugular of this talented, artsy community (photographers! urban planners! painters!) through Ali Maher - artist, professor and head of the Royal Film Commission - evidently, Amman's social it-man. I was lucky enough to bump into him while wandering the streets of downtown Jebel Amman (you know, because I wander around talking to strangers while in foreign cities). Ali has a magical parade, and has taken good care of me since meeting him that fateful afternoon.

Jordan seems to be well-positioned to capture the business coming into the region. It is young (approx. 60% of the population is under the age of 30) and educated – thus its competitive edge is its human capital (it relies heavily on neighbors for natural resources). It is extremely progressive: I have never seen so many government ministries in my life (I've heard it joked about that these ministries essentially “mask unemployment”...I’m not sure how true that is, but I thought I would just throw that out there). I have never, for that matter, come across so many action committees or acronyms, either. In a meeting yesterday, a ministry representative joked that: "forming a committee is another way of saying, 'let's do nothing about it, but pretend like we are'". Which makes me wonder a lot about the level of bureaucracy and inefficiency here.

Which brings me to development initiatives: there’s an incredible amount of foreign aid & funding on offer, with the United States Agency for International Development (USAID) being a main contributor. This funding brings with it many American/European “career consultants”, who seemingly get initial experience here and then get directed back here time & time again, thanks to their expertise and familiarity. One such consultant joked to me that Jordan was “the vortex” (funny, as I’ve referred to Bolivia as the vortex, too). Re: the development consultancy thing, I'm going to be jaded here and say that: while everyone wants to help the poor and destitute, so few are willing to live like them (and so, you become a consultant...). The local NGO network is also quite strong. I’ve been keeping busy with a project at the YEA (the Young Entrepreneur’s Association), which lobbies for structural change to improve the business environment for start-ups and SMEs. It’s given me excellent perspective on just how much grassroots development initiative is taking place here (and just how much these guys compete for resources).

Now onto one of my favorite topics: FOOD! So, I think I was spoiled in Dubai, where there were many cheap & cheerful establishments with enjoyable, sit-down environments. It seems that in Amman, what you pay for is atmosphere. You’re also pretty much limited to generic European cuisine and Arabic food, save a few exceptions. There still aren’t many places where you can get alcohol with your food though (Islamic religious law, sharia, prohibits the consumption of alcohol), unless it's a pricey place, or a franchise (and there are alot of those: Schlotsky's, Houston's, Popeye's, Bennigan’s...I could go on). In liquor stores, alcohol is quite expensive due to heavy taxation. Jordanians have a serious sweet-tooth: copious amounts of sugar are used in everything. For example: in baklava, in kanafeh (delicious but intense – first-timers should try this at the infamous downtown “Habibah's”), in the tea (standard black, or sage) and Turkish coffee (on offer practically anywhere). One of the first things I learned in Arabic was to say schwei, which means “only a little”, when I ordered my hot beverages. Actually, I don’t know if it’s that they overuse sugar here, or that the Western world has demonized refined sugar so much that I feel I’m doing something seriously bad by consuming sugar at all. But there you have it. Contrary to what I would have thought, falafel & hummus are a morning thing (first-timers should try this at the infamous downtown “Hashem’s”, but you can also get a falafel & hummus smeared sandwich on the street anytime between the hours of 9 am -2 pm. The same goes for zaatar-smeared pastry). The ubiquitous shawarma (meat wraps) are particularly tasty in Jordan, as they make use of a stretchy flat bread (called sha'rak), instead of boring old pita (first-timers should try this at “Reem’s” shawarma stand, on the 2^nd circle near downtown Amman). The national dish, called Mansaf, is quite the feast: it consists of this same stretchy flat bread, topped with yogurt-stewed rice (mixed with almonds and pine nuts), topped with tender chunks of lamb, drizzled with more hot, curdled yogurt. You eat this with your hands, rolling it into small balls; then you flick it into your mouth with your thumb (see the photo below - where Hala & Dawn show Nick & I how Jordan rolls...ha, see what I did there?). Note: Mansaf should really only be consumed when homemade, as it’s a family thing and most of the joy comes from the sharing. Then there is arak, the local alcohol (ironic?), which is similar to Greek ouzo – it’s a digestive that tastes like anise seed, and turns white when you mix it with water. Last, but not least, I’ve found that any local dukan (corner shop) boasts all the Jordanian staples: pulses (nuts, seeds, dried & snack-able beans), dried fruit, pickles, and chili paste. And of course, I shouldn’t omit the incredibly delicious, nutritious labaneh - strained yoghurt (I am currently obsessed with this – it’s just so versatile...).

Other random things I’ve noticed include: the Middle East loves tissues. I swear, boxes of tissues are absolutely everywhere. People take out 5, 6, 7, 8 sheets whenever there's a drip or a spot or...whenever they feel like they should be holding tissue. Jordanians will, and do, smoke anywhere/anytime (my coworker just told me there are even ashtrays at his local gym), and are especially fond of narghile (aka sheesha). In fact, you can even order narghile to your doorstep for a whopping JD6 (roughly USD $10)- a guy brings it to you, with lit coals and all, only to return in the morning to pick up the borrowed equipment. There are a lot of foreigners studying Arabic in Jordan, most of which are on formal exchange schemes; but apparently there are even more of them studying in neighboring Syria. I don’t feel that Jordan boasts the most considerate or strategic of drivers...being a pedestrian has never been so amusing and indeed frustrating. And like Bolivia (yep, again), there is music blaring everywhere, starting with your taxi ride. On that, nearly all the taxi drivers I’ve encountered 1) actually know where Bolivia is (!!!), and 2) are all big fans of Evo Morales, for his recent display of solidarity with the so-called Arab world (when he booted out the Israeli Ambassador). Also, I feel like the UAE, Bahrain and Lebanon are universally recognized as the region’s “playpens”: economically they are more liberal, and I guess just generally more up to date with the times (on that, Lebanon seems to be the “sophisticate” of the gang, the bringer of cool and class). Amman's original name was Philadelphia (Greek for "brotherly love"). All the cool social/media events seem to be sponsored by Zain telecom (owned by Kuwait-based Vodafone), similar to what happens in Bolivia with Tigo (owned by Luxembourg-based Millicom). The mosques are lit with neon green lights. The fragrance of choice here is oudh oil, which is very smokey and potent, and incredibly expensive too. And lastly…can I just ask, could Queen Rania be any more perfect? I mean, I want to be like her when I grow up.

Ma as-salaamah, my friends. I leave you with a list of some must-see tourist stuff.

The Crusades: Ajlun, Karak, and Shobak castles.

Nature & wildlife: the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature protects numerous national parks, including the one at Dana (which gets a lot of buzz). Then there's Wadi Rum (amazing desert landscape from the classic movie "Lawrence of Arabia"; on the border with Saudi, still populated by the Bedouins), and Aqaba (Red Sea – some of the world’s best diving, this city is warm year round & much more laid back than Jordan's capital, Amman).

Roman ruins: Jerash (aka the Decapolis)

Religious pilgrimage: Madaba (oldest known Byzantine mosaics), Mt. Nebo (Moses’ place of burial, and stunning lookout point over all of the holy land) and Jesus’ Baptism site.

Ancient history: Petra (home to the Nabateans, Romans, Byzantine period, the Ottomans…only to then die out and be rediscovered in the 1800s by a lucky Swiss traveler)

Holistic experience: head for the Dead Sea (slather yourself in allegedly therapeutic mud and let your feet bob up next to your head - it’s so salty that you can’t even get your head beneath the water).

Click here to see my photos of Jordan

Online communities

The marvelous thing about online communities - namely, Facebook - is that they are interactive. They enable us to exchange from wherever the heck we want, without actually having to see people. Currently (I say current, because its functionality is constantly expanding) Facebook's main uses are:

1. Keeping up with contacts. In my case, my friends are scattered across the world, and many do not know each other. This gives a person (the global nomad especially) an immediate sense of identity/community. Through uploaded photo albums and my wall (i.e. public email - a place that displays to everyone who I am talking to, and what about) I can let these people know what I am doing. I can also see what they are doing. All this, without having to maintain direct contact. And so for many of us has become a comfort zone, a place to go when you've got some down-time in the office, when you are traveling and feeling homesick, etc...a place to get up to date on your people and places.

2. Information exchange. I find that Facebook has been great for keeping me informed on, well, everything. Through it I can gather and share all kinds of leads: to news, culture, conspiracy theories, lifestyle, you name it. Someone posts an article...I read it...we talk about it. Someone invites me to join a discussion or a group, and I can speak out. Suddenly I don't have to go and meet someone for coffee (or know them personally at all) to be intellectually engaged. To quote my buddy Adam Smith: "Facebook has enabled the great debates for the masses".

3. Branding, i.e. identity and image management. Facebook is a powerful tool in defining who we are: because the profile you craft for yourself is your face to the world. Let me elaborate on that: it's not who you are, but who you want the world to think you are (often people divulge no information at all, and upload no photos - which in & of itself is a statement). Upload a little bit of this, a little bit of that; omit this, omit that; and voila - and you are magically the person you want to be. In short, it enables you to package yourself. You become your own brand of person.

Yet despite these uses, we all hate it. It's intrusive. Unless you master the privacy settings you can't lift a finger without everyone knowing about it. It's gossip. While not wanting our own drama to be played out on screen, we want to see other peoples' blood and tears. Lastly, it's extremely time-consuming. This topic begs the story that when I was going through rough waters, and needed to focus on the "here & now", I deleted my account and got off of it. Only to get back on it when I was back on track. And recently, in an effort to be less public and more rooted in the "here & now", I blocked my wall. This means that I have confined my uses of Facebook to: a way to directly contact/be contacted, a way to exchange informational leads, and (whether I want it or not) identity management. This is still a lot of work.

So my question (rhetorical) is: why do we bother at all?

1. Why do we want to share so much? Yes, we are social animals and have an inherent need to speak out and be heard, to hear and be spoken to. But why do we crave to do it all the time, in a virtual environment, often with people who aren't that important to us (and in some cases may not even know)? Is it because the traditional community has been eroded? Because we are all aching to make sense out of (and carve a place for ourselves in) a world full of chaos? I mean are things really so doom & gloom that we need the internet to make us feel like we are "connecting" with others?

2. What defines "oversharing"? If I get to work one morning and post, "Sofia watched Oprah this morning and feels all warm & fuzzy", it might make you laugh. But it's unecessary (like you really care). On the other hand, if I post something political like "Sofia thinks Obama's stimulus package is a load of crap", some people will find that inappropriate, perhaps even offensive. But it's certainly a more meaningful shout-out than when I told you I watched Oprah over my morning cheerios. My point is, there does exist such a thing as a serial-poster. But at what point do you become "serial"?

3. Why is it that we let certain non-friends into our facebook circle? This gives them access to what very personal insight into our lives. Let's be honest - we all have friends lying around on there who aren't really friends, not in the true sense of the word. But for some reason it hurts to let them go. Is it because we think we might need something from them someday?

4. Leaving cyberspace aside for a moment, what about overuse of blackberries, sms messages and online instant messaging systems (msn, skype, gchat)? For many of us they have similar uses to those of online communities - time wasters, comfort zones, a way to feel "connected" (not to mention that instant messaging systems are excellent for file exchange). What qualifies as "overuse" of these mediums?

We know that life can go on without these marvelous communications tools, because we got by just fine before. My two cents is that they are as much a blessing as a complication. Final thought: the fact that I am writing this on my blog (and the fact that I even have a blog in the first place) means that I want (need?) to share my thoughts with you. Touche.

UAE - Second Impressions

As I spend more time here, my impressions on the UAE are consolidating. Since last writing, I've been to Abu Dhabi to visit the Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan Mosque, the $1 billion dollar Emirates Palace hotel, and exhibition on the plans for Saadiyat Island - where the Guggenheim, the Louvre, the Sorbonne, and NYU will all be setting up shop over the course of the next 10 years.

I've also been clay shooting at the nearby Jebel Ali shooting club, where we were *told* we'd get to shoot handguns but alas, they were merely shotguns. Still alot of fun! I've blown inordinate amounts of time in malls, both the glitzy ones, and the "lesser" ones (translation: not fancy and air conditioned, and instead of yummy mummies, rich high schoolers and young urban professionals, are frequented mainly by the migrant communities.) The latter made me a happy girl as things - cause I really need more things, right? - were significantly cheaper...and I couldn't torture myself with luxury brand shoe & handbag sections. In an effort to see another side to things, I decided to try the bus system for a few days - which, if I wasn't interested in taking in my surroundings, would have been a colossal waste of time. Literally 3/4 of my days consisted of commuting, trekking from one line to another, desperately seeking guidance from strangers and only to find that no one really knows the system (there aren't even printed route maps to consult). I was surprised at this lack of familiarity. However, it has afforded me the opportunity to see another side to Dubai - it is a place where Hindus, Muslims, Christians, and all shapes and colors and languages and sizes converge. Initially I thought it might be a problem that I'm blatantly not a contracted worker, also that I'm female (few of these workers are, save a few waitresses or maids) and this would lead to...general discomfort, for all parties involved; but I was pleasantly surprised to find my fellow commuters more curious and helpful than anything else. While making my way to the back of the first bus, the men freaked out and ushered me towards the front - turns out there's a section reserved for women, and it's more an obligation than it is optional to install yourself there.

But hey. If you've got time and some good walking shoes, and don't mind walking on highways (oddly there is normally a little sidewalk along the side), AED 2 vs. AED 50 is a bargain. Either way, you'll still have to listen to someone being barked at in Urdu or Farsi - whether it's your taxi driver or your bus driver. I'd like to spend some more time in Deira/Satwa and Bur Dubai, where there are little pockets catering to each nationality. Next to the central bus station in Bur Dubai I indulged in what was probably the best lassi of my life, browsed a store called "Bollywood" which sold all things kitsch, walked street after street of wholesale computer and telecom shops. Basically, it was a little India. One area I really have to praise Dubai for is the food - it's all excellent, very diverse and "ethnic" (for lack of a better term), and if you're adventurous - very cheap. Putting the idea of curries aside for a moment, you're also never too far from a roadside Lebanese place - where you can get your roasted half chickens or delicious, nutritious shawarmas (plus other yummy stuff, too). Last night we had an excellent authentic Japanese meal, complete with Zaru Soba and seared monkfish (not to mention, sake). You just have to step outside the beaten track a little (in a related vein: who knew there were so many different types of dates? I will miss these chewy treats - nature's little bundles of sweetness.)


While making my way back to my side of town (where mostly expats live), I decided to hit one of the malls. Before getting there however, we looped through a tucked-away area, which turned out to be staff accommodation. By that I mean leased block apartments - i.e. flimsy whitewashed buildings decorated with airing laundry - in which your chefs, dish washers, janitors and taxi drivers live. Not surprisingly the cars parked outside them were filled with corporate shuttle vans, belonging to all stores and chain restaurants - in this particular area, they were mainly property of Chili's and Hardee's. There were a great deal of taxis parked there as well. It took me 10 minutes from where I got dropped off to make it to the mall: this involved dodging cars on the highway, along with several other turbaned construction workers. Repeat: only 10 minutes from dust and sweat to marble floors and air conditioned stores, displaying beautiful, state of the art, and often useless things. And to top the day off? I went for a light evening run in the gym here at home on the Palm Jumeirah (land resurrected from the sea, in the shape of a Palm tree) - where everything is tranquil, leisurely, TV is cable and flat-screened, not a care in the world. The easy life.

So, I had been told that the Dubai Zoo was a real sight - not because it is so fantastic and the animals so well preserved, but because it cost AED 2 (50 cents) and the space is so incredibly small. Low and behold - it does boast an incredible variety of species given the space (probably not larger than a football pitch), and not surprisingly, the conditions were atrocious. In many cases the exhibitions looked more like a 5th grade science fair than a zoo. Directly behind the giraffe were street posts - we were so close to the road you could hear the traffic - meanwhile the lion paced restlessly in his tiny cage, the lone chimp just sat there silently, suffering, from the solitude. I don't even want to think about how hot it gets in the summer. The snake hall, which consisted of really poisonous snakes covered by sheets of plastic, had a sign that read "First aid kit available at entrance" - ummm, say what? The monkeys had some strange growths on their "behinds", something I am not sure is normal, even if they were those monkeys with the freaky red bums (you know which ones I'm talking about). Poor things. It's just not meant to be like that. There was even a grizzly. And some of those cool Arabian onyxes, and rare Ecuadorian macaws. Oh, which reminds me - I learned that falcons (as in, the type of bird) are revered as a symbol of strength and goodness (I guess that's not too different from what we do with the condor in the Andres). Not surprisingly falconry, is the favored sport of the sheikhs - that, and the breeding of fine Arabian horses...

As I left, I passed the Safa public library, which was pretty unimpressive. The most interesting thing was its extensive National Geographic collection. Which made me think about how there is actually very little investment in public institutions here. I can go ski inside, eat ridiculous food for ridiculous prices, watch a shark swim over me while I inner tube, stay in a 7 star hotel...but there aren't many parks (Safa, Zabeel, Creekside) worthy of strolling through. The zoo is a mess. OK, but wait - deals are being struck with world-class institutions (see: Saadiyat Island) like the Louvre and NYU, effectively bringing more culture to this place. Something about it bothered me, and I think Nick had a good point when he said what was lacking was a bottom-up approach. Things (brands, names, legacies) are bought, franchised, and borrowed; but there is no effort to create an environment which fosters community and intellect, to create a center of thought, so that the whole thing can sprawl organically. Instead it's imported, slightly artificial. Know-how is bought instead of tacitly, experientially obtained. Frankly, it disappointed me that these world-class institutions were "selling out" - I understand that like any organization they have to make money, but I can't trust that the quality of their institutions here (namely, the Universities) will be up to par with the ones at home....I digress. At any rate, I've also noticed that everyone and their grandmother works in "property development" or recruitment of some sort - I wonder how their prospects are looking now? Supposedly Dubai is pretty much going bankrupt, with many projects being canceled and Abu Dhabi's "powers that be" bailing them out. Still you see signs and read about all these new "villages" or "lands" (see: Nakheel's planned Waterfront - they're aiming for 1.5 million residents and twice the size of Hong Kong. I don't even think there are 1.5 million residents in Dubai right now). Often, the highway signs are up for an area or project, when the construction hasn't even finished yet. In a few cases, precious mudflats and mangroves - which were already sparse in the region - are being swallowed up by these ambitious real estate endeavors; environmental conservation is not too important, it seems, in the UAE's urban development plans. The biggest and most ironic project of all, I think, is Masdar's proposed carbon neutral city just outside of Abu Dhabi.

The amount of extravagant cars is also something I forgot to mention. In nearly any parking lot and you'll find 100, 200, $300,000 cars parked there. License plates are also another status indicator: ones which begin with A, B and C are more expensive, as are ones with fewer or symmetrical or repeated numbers. Apparently there's a big auction business behind these plates. We actually forgot where we parked one day at one of the malls, only to find out that you can request a card with the location (level, number) you are leaving it in. Next time, I guess. There's also a big Vertu mobile phone following - each one of these bad boys is handcrafted in England and comes with a personal concierge service. But extraordinary things come with extraordinary prices.

There are schools and social clubs of all denominations - for example, the Gulf Indian School, the Sudanese Social Club. There seems to be a whole myriad of international schools - all with similar names of course (such as the American International School, the Dubai International Academy) - and only one or two are accredited by government education boards. There's even a Bridget Jones' Women's Club (ummm, so I guess that's a bunch of women with a penchant for cheap white wine, feel they constantly commit social blunders, and date emotionally stunted men?). Health clinics are on every street corner - there are Canadian homeopathy centers, osteopathic care professionals, centers of obesity specialists; also a good deal of aesthetic surgery, orthodontists and sports injury rehabilitation facilities. I wouldn't have the slightest idea where to go for the best care - medical tourism is clearly being pushed in the Emirates. The overwhelming noise of media and exhibitions is also worthy of note: beauty and spa, sports and leisure, events and entertainment publications abound - so Time Out is actually just one of many information sources. Yet despite the large amount of events that seem to be on offer, I feel that Dubai lacks a lot of character in terms of the urban landscape - you don’t get a sense of the people that live in the city by looking at the city. There's no public art, that is to say sculptures or murals.

A final peculiarity: the use of water instead of paper in public toilets. Thoughts? Opinions?

Click here to see my updated photos of Dubai

United Arab Emirates & Oman

The UAE is a weird & wonderful place. I feel it was best summed up by a heavyset (and expat heavyweight) at the Christmas party I went to upon arrival: "this place is a mixture between Las Vegas and a 3rd world country - Middle East light". Another friend of mine themed it "Faux Glam". Translation: on the one hand it's shiny and modern, luxurious and ostentatious. But scratch the surface and it's crumbling - the service is actually pretty poor (given the prices and reputation of the places) and the endless variety of different nationalities barely manage to communicate in broken English (forget Arabic!). The stores and brands on offer are such that every foreign community is catered to - indeed it would seem that in Dubai, the Britons, the Americans, the Filipinos, the Indians, and the French alike can go to their local coffee shop or grocery store. There's a Next and a Debenham's, a Chucky Cheese and an Applebee's, a Virgin Megastore and a Border's, a Boots, Pain Quotidien, Paul's, a Marks & Spencers, a Carrefour and a Geant, even a Safeway (cleverly renamed "Safestway") - a Costa, a Starbucks - a Jollibee's and even a Nando's for the South Affers amongst us. And it also seems that whatever your nationality, you have a variety of banks from home to work through/with over your stay here - so you're not just limited to HSBC, "the world's local bank"...

This exposure to convenience and abundance, consumer choice and branding, after 2 years of hiding out in Bolivia has been sort of flabbergasting. I mean not like it's anything new, but you sort of forget that there is so much to have. That fruit & vegetables are commonly flown in from around the world, that they should NOT have spots on them or be irregularly shaped. That you can always "pick up" some shoes if you forget yours on your travels...yesterday I spent about 5 hours just walking from store to store, at the Mall of the Emirates. It was both enlightening and stressful - picking up and shaking electronics to figure out what they do, getting a feel for what new media is out there, getting a feel for what "reasonable" prices are, trying on clothes at the one-stop shops that filter high-end fashion and make it available to the masses (H&M, Zara). All this in a gigantic mall, in the middle of a desert - and in close proximity of an indoor ski slope, which resembles something of a bunny hill at first glance but is actually quite substantial. I got to see the Hamburg football team, who were walking around like tourists as well - here for the game tonight against Milan. It's always funny to see a "fellow foreigner" in a far and away place, you sort of look at eachother in instant recognition, feeling like you should say "hello" for some odd reason.

Back to the general gist: everyone is here for work. Most of everything looks and feels like a hotel. It seems that construction sites pop up overnight - whether it's a real estate development project, or just a roundabout. It makes me wonder how they will fill up the seemingly endless amount of high-end accommodation. Where coastline lacks, it is resurrected from the sea. The road signs and the highways themselves are chaotic and poorly planned. The drivers are reckless, many driving racing cars or gas-guzzling SUVs (apparently, turn signals are just for the safety obsessed). The haze that hangs over the city makes it so that the skyline is rarely completely visible, which is a shame given that there are so many awe-inspiring buildings. The Burj Dubai - the world's tallest building - is still under construction. Except for the area where the migrant workers (Filipinos, Pakistanis, Indians, Sudanese, Ethiopian, Yemeni, Saudi, and I suspect the large quantity of Russians may lieve around here too) live, it's very faceless. Despite TJ and Megan's stomach infections, we managed to have some great food in these areas (namely, Ethiopian and Iranian - I'm still waiting on Pakistani and Afghani), great juices (who'd have thought avocado and honey blends are so good? - and to my great delight, fresh pomegranate is always on offer) and tea too (ah, the sweet, milkiness of Chai - with which Nick has some serious portion control issues, bless!).

Jaded? Gosh, I hope not. Because there are definitely a whole host of more genuine "down to earth" activities (Entire days can be spent wandering around Deira or Bur Dubai, the workers' areas, where you'll hear, see and smell everything - here, temples and mosques and cultures melt together. There is also a great deal of off-roading and camping in and around the UAE, for example in neighboring Oman, which is safe, beautiful and cheap. Oman itself is much lower key and much more genuine - here you feel that there truly are "locals" and not just transient individuals. Dune-buggying is also pretty freaking cool, if you can stomach the ups & downs! The camel races in Abu Dhabi are also super interesting - where they use robotic jockeys following a big human rights scandal a few years back, when the international media revealed that small children were being used as jockeys. N.B.: under Islamic law betting is not allowed, so the end goal are "prizes". Loans are also considered illegal, something which greatly complicates Islamic banking. I need to learn more about that). And the flashy, "Vegas-y" stuff is fun too. Just yesterday I walked - *GASP*, walked! that's something few dare to do here, not least because of the sticky whether - to the Atlantis hotel (a pretty ridiculous place), so that I could have a peek at their Aquarium. They actually have a whale shark stuck inside that thing. It's sad and impressive at the same time. This hotel was really the only thing that truly felt like Vegas - the coastline outside was just fantastic. I'll have to head over at sundown soon. We also when for several yummy - but pricey - cocktails at the Burj al Arab, the world's only 7 star hotel. At the sky bar there is actually a "minimum consumption" rule - and of course the menu was full of amazing drinks, all conjured up by what was called a "professional mixologist". There were a few for over $3,000. I can't get my head around that, try as I may. The cheapest ones went for about AED 100, or around about $30. Given the prices, the decor was pretty random - a digital theme, with computer boards for walls, blinking and flashing like it's Y2k (come to think of it, it was probably planned and built in Y2k). I certinaly enjoyed observing the high powered dinner dates going on around us...big hair, loafers and jetset handbags. So FABULOUS!

It's also worth a mention that New Year's Eve was canceled at the request of Sheikh Mo, out of respect for the Palestinians being killed in Gaza. The radio stations were also unplugged for a few days, so we listened to alot of classical music instead of the usual pop-y stuff from the Virgin airwaves (or BBC if we're feeling intellectually curious). It's also worth a mention that Duty Free is the salvation of nearly all non-Emiratees - alcohol licenses are difficult to obtain in Dubai, so most people drive to across the border to Umm Al Qwayn (different Emirates have different alcohol regulations) to stock up. We went on the day before New Year's and the rush was shocking - had I been able to take my camera in, I would have, but alas - no recording devices are allowed. Needless to say there were many locals on shopping sprees. In a similar vein: every campsite we've set up has been conveniently located and visited by a group of locals hoping to join in on the festivities - no doubt curious to see what that alcohol thing is all about. Or at least, what the hell is it that we do in the desert?

I've been able to get some interesting perspectives on this place, thanks to contacts across a whole host of occupations and reasons for being here. This begins of course with Nick's circle of friends, rugby friends and coworkers. Tonie -Nick's maverick photographer buddy, and his girlfirend Emmanuelle - French journalist at Gulf News - have been super fun and helpful so far in terms of gaining local knowledge. Gabriel was in town visiting his fam (his dad is an architect in Sharjah) and interestingly his family's New Year's celebrations - an Assyrian party at a big hotel - were postponed until the following day, also due to Gaza. I'm trying to train (and by trying, I mean thinking about it more than actually doing it) for the 10km run part of the Dubai Marathon on the 16th of January. So the other day went for a run with a Japanese woman I'd met on our group New Year's Eve desert camping trip, who teaches at the Japanese highschool. From the sound of it the Japanese community, true to form, is tight-knit very supportive from within - she gave me some good tips on where to buy the pickled ume I so miss snacking on, and of course on where to get an authentic bowl of udon. This weekend we'll drive over to Abu Dhabi to visit Mr. and Mrs. Jones, both former teachers of mine from my time in Paris. They currently run the international school there. From the sound of it I'll also be here when two friends pass through on business from London - Laura for Dubai Art and Maria for the World Future Energy Summit. Yep, because I have such fabulous friends...

Recap: Dubai is the honey pot of the middle east. Nobody here seems to love it. Everyone's here to get forward in life in some shape or form, and few plan to stay here forever. My only real complaint would be that the public transport is crap (even the doorman says so - and if Abdul says so, it MUST be true). The buses are cheap, yes - but the coverage is limited, they pass only very 60 minutes in most places, the stops are quite spread out, and they are never on time. This is due to change though, with the rail system being put in place. Another interesting current event over here is that the Gulf Cooperation Council (UAE, Bahrain, Saudi Arabia, Oman, Qatar, and Kuwait) is building up to a currency union. When we were in Muscat (Oman) the GCC was meeting, in order to further these discussions.

I think the biggest question on everybody's mind concerns sustainability - those that live here normally finish their conversations on the topic with a shaking of the head and a line like, "here today, gone tomorrow". And it's true that much of the planning seems so short term. Environmentally speaking I would say - admittedly, knowing very little about the technical side of things - that despite the forums on energy & climate change, the green marketing campaigns I see splashed here and there, and of course the region's deep entrenchment in the oil industry...it doesn't seem like there's much of a carbon footprint mentality.

Click here for my photos from the UAE
Click here for my photos from Oman

November - Vitamins

Humans require between 40 and 50 essential nutrients in order to function optimally; these nutrients consist of 1) macro-nutrients (carbohydrates, protein/amino acids, fats/lipids); 2) micro nutrients (vitamins and minerals); and 3) miscellaneous nutrients derived from factors such as light, oxygen, water, and fiber.

13 vitamins are necessary for essential metabolic reactions: 4 fat-soluble (A, D, E, and K) and 9 water-soluble (8 B-complex and vitamin C). Water soluble vitamins can only be temporarily stored and furthermore, in limited quantities. Excesses are passed through the urine. Fat soluble vitamins occur in foods that contain fat and can be stored in the body (in the liver or fatty tissue) until needed. So in the end, you actually need that bit of blubber to stay healthy...

Vitamin deficiencies (avitaminosis) can cause various illnesses, e.g. night blindness (vitamin A deficiency), depression (vitamin B3, B6, B12, and folic acid), scurvy (vitamin C), eczema (folic acid, biotin), rickets or osteomalacia/osteopenia/osteoporosis (vitamin D).

"Whatever", you say - you take your multivitamin, so it's covered. Or maybe you knock back capsule cocktails, after a nice long run. Not so fast.

Though the body cannot distinguish between synthetic (laboratory produced supplements) and naturally occurring vitamins, other substances which accompany the vitamin in its natural state make it perform slightly differently than the synthetic vitamin does. Furthermore, recent studies fail to prove significant benefits of vitamin-popping. And lastly, an active lifestyle means that your body needs a steady supply of them throughout the day (especially those that are water soluble) - so short, quick bursts of the stuff at breakfast or before bed isn't the answer. And as no one food can give us all the vitamins we need, a balanced diet is essential. Bottom line: ditch your vitamins and start eating your 5 a day. Nature does it best.

Raw food, slowww food

Eco-gastronomy = a recognition of the strong connections between plate and planet. Both of these movements fall into the latter:

The Slow Food movement was born of a reaction to fast food and fast life. And, not least, the belief that the enjoyment of excellent food and drink should be combined with efforts to save the countless traditional grains, vegetables, fruits, animal breeds and food products that are disappearing due to the prevalence of convenience food and industrial agribusiness. They have this cool thing called "Taste Education", a bunch of classes basically that help people to "rediscover the joys of eating and understand the importance of caring where their food comes from, who makes it and how it’s made". And I guess, to shop seasonally and locally, and eat slow. Neat.

Raw foodism promotes a diet consisting primarily of uncooked or at unheated (above 104/40 degrees) food. It is possible to have a raw animal food diet, however you're looking at raw oysters, steak tartare, sashimi and pickled fish....forget your boneless, skinless chicken breast, because that's out of the question. Mainly you're looking at lots of fruit and vegetables, and grains, nuts and berries. The benefits are touted to be higher nutrient content, better digestion (due to digestive enzymes contained in raw food), and a better immune system (due to bacteria which would otherwise be killed off by heat). In addition to higher energy levels, slower aging effects, less probability of degenerative diseases, and enhanced emotional stability. Mel Gibson and Uma Thurman are apparently pretty into it, but N.B.: after an extreme bout with this stuff, Gwyneth Paltrow became the poster child for orthorexia.

Eating seasonal

Eating seasonal means you get the most flavor and nutritional value and when it is the most affordable. For the greatest freshness look for foods that are locally grown and are in season.

Seasons can also be considered a source of natural diversity. Changes in growing conditions from spring to summer or fall to winter are considered essential for balancing the earth's resources and its life forms. However modern food processing and worldwide distribution of food make foods available year-round, and grocery stores shelves look much the same in December as they do in July. Food miles are absolutely avoidable.

Of course in different parts of the world, and even in different regions of one country, seasonal menus can vary. But there are some overriding principles for seasonal eating:

• In spring, focus on tender, leafy vegetables that represent the fresh new growth of this season. The greening that occurs in springtime should be represented by greens on your plate, including swiss chard, spinach, romain lettuce, fresh parsely and basil.
• In summer, stick with light, cooling foods, e.g. fruits like strawberries, apple, pear, and plum: vegetables like summer squash, broccoli, cauliflower, and corn: and spices and seasonings like peppermint and cilantro.
• In fall, turn toward the more warming, autumn harvest foods, including carrot, sweet potato, onions, and garlic. Also emphasize the more warming spices and seasonings including ginger, peppercorns, and mustard seeds.
• In winter, turn even more exclusively toward warming foods. Foods that take longer to grow are generally more warming than foods that grow quickly. All of the animal foods fall into the warming category including fish, chicken, beef, lamb, and venison. So do most of the root vegetables, including carrot, potato, onions, and garlic. Eggs also fall under this warming category, as do corn and nuts.